Need Help With Rotors:

[mact3333]

To make a long story short, I had 15/12 mm MS spacers on my 19 oem wheels. Just got new Morr wheels and didnt need the spacers anymore. First of all, unless someone taught me a new trick to keep the spacers from being fused to the hub I will NEVER put spacers on my car again.

The spacers were fused onto the hub beyond belief. Since I was at the wheel installers, didnt have the luxury or the tools to really take my time trying to get each spacer off carefully(not sure if more time would have helped in my case)...already took me over an hr to do this as is....I had to wedge screwdrivers between hub and spacer and even then it didnt budge. I had no choice but to create a wedge channel although it pained me to do so....had to do it at 4-5 different spots to work it loose... By the time I got all 4 off there was major damage to the spacers(who cares) but more imp to my hub...my wheel guy had to sand down the external protrusions...he got all those off but obviously he couldnt sand it down perfectly evenly(see pics) and there were wedge marks into the hub he couldnt get out without grinding down majorly on it...wheel guy said as long as there were no external protrusions I would be ok.

My question, knowing that the surface of hub isnt perfectly flat, would you be concerned given there wouldnt be perfect surface area contact between inner hub backing plate of wheel and the hub surface on car?...safe for street?...for track?...I am thinking of cancelling my track day in 2 wks due to this.

Should I buy new rotors at 1200.00 and 300.00 install cost???....tech at dealer said he wouldnt worry about it...asked another BMW brake vendor and he also said he wouldnt worry about it...but at 130mph on track I am going to worry about it...matter of fact, I am worried when I drive over 75 mph on freeway right now.

See pics, you can see how there are screwdriver created grooves...this is only one hub but all others look similar...certain edges on different parts on hub has been sanded down more than others by a 1mm or so...I torqued wheel to 100ft-lb and after driving a day it hasnt loosened up at all.

Thx.

Lastly on last pic in middle of pic, you see the black screw(part of bottom of end link) with no nut on it, is there supposed to be one on there?...black pt is part of control arm on drivers side rear and the end link is attached(mid upper part of pic) to sway bar above ...thx.

[SlamMan]

Don't worry about it.

On another note, would some anti-seize compound on the spacers help them from fusing?

[ajohnson300]

I think you're just being too critical. Those scratches/gouges pictured won't affect your ride or performance one bit. Just ensure the wheel has a nice flat surface to mate up with, and in the future you could of just cleaned the hub real good with a wire brush and installed grease or anti seize behind your spacers and you wouldn't of had this issue.

[mact3333]

thx guys...the reason I am being critical is because the wheel guy wouldnt mount my wheels initially cause the powder coater not only painted the inner hub of wheel hence the wheel wouldnt fit on lip of hub, but there was also overspray on inner part of wheel at hub backing plate and my wheel guy said he had to sand it off to be safe...so if a mm of overspray on backing plate of the wheel is dangerous, I was thinking, how could uneven surfaces on hub not be just as dangerous?..well, that was my thinking anyway.

Any thoughts on black bolt with no nut on it??.

See link.

http://screencast.com/t/GhVlKzFMgGy3

[JAJ]

The bolt is threaded into the aluminum directly and no nut is required.

As for the corrosion on the hubs that welded your spacers on, that can happen with spacers or with wheels, so make sure there's always anti-seize on the hubs. BMW puts a smear of it on at the factory, and it looks like yours was somehow lost or cleaned off along the way.

Originally Posted by mact3333

...Any thoughts on black bolt with no nut on it??.

See link.

http://screencast.com/t/GhVlKzFMgGy3

[JohnnyRoaster]

I have to use spacers with my winter wheels. First season I didn't put any anti seize and the spacers were a bear to get off in the spring.

I agree with the other posts about your hubs being fine.

[mact3333]

Thx!...since everything thinks I am making a big deal out of nothing, I better call BMW parts guy and try to cancel the new rotors I ordered yesterday.

Originally Posted by JAJ

The bolt is threaded into the aluminum directly and no nut is required.

As for the corrosion on the hubs that welded your spacers on, that can happen with spacers or with wheels, so make sure there's always anti-seize on the hubs. BMW puts a smear of it on at the factory, and it looks like yours was somehow lost or cleaned off along the way.

[persian54]

if you were going to spend $$ on new rotors, I would say upgrade to a front BBK at the very least

[LiM3y]

Originally Posted by persian54

if you were going to spend $$ on new rotors, I would say upgrade to a front BBK at the very least

why do you say that?

[persian54]

Originally Posted by LiM3y

why do you say that?

I would rather spend $2600 or so on a ST40 front BBK than $1200 on stock front rotors

Improved performance and aesthetics

[mact3333]

Originally Posted by persian54

I would rather spend $2600 or so on a ST40 front BBK than $1200 on stock front rotors

Improved performance and aesthetics

1200.00 is retail for all 4 rotors...you can get all 4 for 950.00 if you know where to look....so for 500.00 you can get fronts, which is far from 2600.00.

[LiM3y]

For street driving and up to advanced track driving levels, the stock calipers are more than adequate with the correct pads for the occasion.