Motor mounts are toast at 60k miles

[Spaceme1117]

So hope I am not intruding.

I don't have an F15. I have a 2013 E70 X5 35i and am planning on changing the motor mounts.

Would this procedure you have written up using the cherry picker and removing the down pipe be applicable to the E70? I would think so as they us the same engine mounts.

And with your procedure is the down pipe the only thing that needs to be removed? I assume the axles don't need to be removed either. Correct?

Thanks.

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

So hope I am not intruding.

I don't have an F15. I have a 2013 E70 X5 35i and am planning on changing the motor mounts.

Would this procedure you have written up using the cherry picker and removing the down pipe be applicable to the E70? I would think so as they us the same engine mounts.

And with your procedure is the down pipe the only thing that needs to be removed? I assume the axles don't need to be removed either. Correct?

Thanks.

It applies to E70 as well, as I've done more than five E70's and they are pretty much the same. You do need to remove the down pipe to get clearance for this work. You'll also need to remove the passenger side drive axle if you have an Xdrive. If you're RWD, then no other axles to deal with.

[lonestar22]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

So hope I am not intruding.

I don't have an F15. I have a 2013 E70 X5 35i and am planning on changing the motor mounts.

Would this procedure you have written up using the cherry picker and removing the down pipe be applicable to the E70? I would think so as they us the same engine mounts.

And with your procedure is the down pipe the only thing that needs to be removed? I assume the axles don't need to be removed either. Correct?

Thanks.

an F15 is just a heavy facelifted E70. Underneath they are essentially the same.

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by lonestar22

an F15 is just a heavy facelifted E70. Underneath they are essentially the same.

Very true. Even the N55 motor is the same, too, except for EWG upgrade from the PWG, revised vacuum pump mechanics, and injectors becoming universally interchangeable without having to hard-code it to the ECU.

[Spaceme1117]

Originally Posted by yupetc

It applies to E70 as well, as I've done more than five E70's and they are pretty much the same. You do need to remove the down pipe to get clearance for this work. You'll also need to remove the passenger side drive axle if you have an Xdrive. If you're RWD, then no other axles to deal with.

My X5 is an X-drive. So the passenger axle does need to be removed then.

Hmm. Was hoping to avoid doing that if possible. Sigh.

When removing the axle, would I need to replace the axle seal as well? Anything else?

Just trying to gather a list of parts and tools I will need:

Engine mounts
Axle nut
36mm, 12-point socket
Axle installation tool
Thrust Arms (mine are on the way out)
Axle seal

I think I have all the other tools that I will need.

[yupetc]

On the axle when you are going back in, you'll need to replace that retaining clip on the spline so it'll seat your differential without slipping out when making turns. You may be able to manage the job without removing the axle, but I don't know how you can have clearance to apply torque on the torx bolts that way because the axle support bracket needs to come off the oil pan. And you will need all the room you can get when you're working with that mount.

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

My X5 is an X-drive. So the passenger axle does need to be removed then.

Hmm. Was hoping to avoid doing that if possible. Sigh.

When removing the axle, would I need to replace the axle seal as well? Anything else?

Just trying to gather a list of parts and tools I will need:

Engine mounts
Axle nut
36mm, 12-point socket
Axle installation tool
Thrust Arms (mine are on the way out)
Axle seal

I think I have all the other tools that I will need.

[Spaceme1117]

Originally Posted by yupetc

On the axle when you are going back in, you'll need to replace that retaining clip on the spline so it'll seat your differential without slipping out when making turns. You may be able to manage the job without removing the axle, but I don't know how you can have clearance to apply torque on the torx bolts that way because the axle support bracket needs to come off the oil pan. And you will need all the room you can get when you're working with that mount.

I was going to get the kit on FCP Euro that includes the seal and the clip.

As for as torque, while I always try to do the correct torque when I can, I'd likely just do "gudentite" on those bolts. Unless, they could be reached from above with some extensions.

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

I was going to get the kit on FCP Euro that includes the seal and the clip.

As for as torque, while I always try to do the correct torque when I can, I'd likely just do "gudentite" on those bolts. Unless, they could be reached from above with some extensions.

On E70's most N55's are PWG, you're barely going to get enough view-space, let alone the clear path to reach your socket down, even with a long extension. There's swivel joints you can add, but I've not had great luck with it that way.

The M12 hex nut nut on the engine mount can be accessed with a combination of angles and extensions to reach from the top, and I remember it's 100 Nm on that bolt there. Like I said, that's doable if you can angle yourself right before the extension reaches the nut. Additional note: use a good 18mm socket to do this, My harbor freight's color-coded Pittsburgh sockets had slippage and wormed out the hex's angles. I had great luck using Milwaukee impact sockets, it needed to be a shallow socket coupled with a u-joint (impact-rated), then the extension to get through to the top of the engine bay. Make sure your socket is seated squarely on the nut before you go wild on the torque. Also remove all the plastic heat-shielding around the engine near the fire-wall (the one that borders the cabin inlet air filter is the critical one to remove).

On those two little torx bolts, I remember torque rating is 19 Nm or 28 Nm depending on the bolt used. Those are easier to reach and apply from the bottom and the side after you remove the axle and the exhaust down pipe. The plastic shields lipping all the suspension arms if removed will give you all the room you need to access those torx bolts. I don't remember being able to easily do these from the top side of the engine bay with extensions.