DIY Dent/Rust Repair and Body Work

[Matticus91]

I'm not going to go into too much detail since I followed ChrisFix's instructions to a T along with the instructions for the paint I used. I'll link the video at the bottom of the thread and go over the basics.

Wanted to share to show this is possible and doable for a newbie with zero bodywork skill.

This is my wife's Mazda 3. Damage was caused by a rouge poll in a parking garage, she never stood a chance

Goal of the project was to prevent rust and try to get the car looking a little better without blowing, at the very least, her $500 deductible at a shop. I also wanted to do it in a way that wouldn't impair a professional from fixing this "properly" in the future, if we became interested in that.

Stuff used:

• Color matched paint set from AutomotiveTouchup.com
• Automotive Green Tape
• Glass reinforced bondo
• Bondo body filler
• Filler Primer
• Paint-safe cartridge mask
• Shitload of gloves
• Rubbing Alcohol
• Plastic sheeting from Home Depot
• Wet sandpaper (160, 320, 600, 1000, 1500 grits)
• Dry Sandpaper (50 & 80)
• Sanding block
• Cordless drill with a wire brush
• A deadblow hammer
• Heat gun
• Tools to take off back bumper and tail light

Total cost for everything expendable: $80 (not including cost of reusable tools)

Here's what I started out with - you can tell how far in it was pushed and how much creasing there was in these pictures:
Mazda3DentFix
Mazda3DentFix
Mazda3DentFix

First step was using the wire brush to get down to bare metal. Then using the heat gun and hammer with a long screwdriver I did my best to pull the dents and reshape the metal in a way that it wouldn't pop back or move when touched.
Mazda3DentFix

After that, it was time for the fiberglass body filler to get enough material to have a strong backer and fill the dents. Then after sanding down some of the glass I did the first layer of bondo, followed by sanding. Then more bondo. Then more sanding. Then more bondo again, followed by additional sanding, and then sanding some more. Finally, sanding again.... and then a little more. All to try and get the shape of the body back and correct the lines that were gone or creased.
Mazda3DentFix
Mazda3DentFix
Mazda3DentFix
Mazda3DentFix
Mazda3DentFix
Mazda3DentFix

Eventually, when I decided I needed to stop sanding or I would be at risk of becoming part of the car, I decided to start the painting process. WHICH MEANT... more sanding. This time with a higher grit in prep for the paint. A couple coats later and I was wet sanding the primer to prep for paint.
Mazda3DentFix
Mazda3DentFix

The paint came in 4 stages:

1. Filler primer
2. Ground coat (primary color)
3. Midcoat (pearl/flake)
4. Top coat (clearcoat)

This next picture is after just one decent coat of groundcoat. After a couple more coats I added the flake, and then sat around for half an hour as it dried.
Mazda3DentFix
Mazda3DentFix
Mazda3DentFix

Finally I applied the clearcoat and let the car sit overnight before peeling away all the protective plastic and tape to reveal my work. If you look close or were told the car was damaged you'd be able to pick out some inconsistencies in the body filler, but for $80 and having never done anything like this before I'm extremely happy with the results. The paint is fixed, the body is 90% better, the seams are sealed and painted, and there's no chance of rust now.

I still need to wet sand and polish the clearcoat once it fully hardens to bring out the flake and glossiness. The paint matches pretty decently despite the bumper being a bit faded.

The car is filthy still since I have to wait to wash it but it looks pretty good even before polishing!

Mazda3DentFix by Matt Steele, on Flickr
Mazda3DentFix by Matt Steele, on Flickr

Here's ChrisFix's video on how to fix rust that I used as a guideline for this project, I don't think I would have even considered attempting this if I hadn't watched his video first.

[lennyf]

Looks like an Ed China job.

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by lennyf

Looks like an Ed China job.

*Edd China and I'll take it lol

[Never_Enough]

Good work

[are0lies]

Not bad, from the photos.

[omasou]

nice job!

[3798j]

I'm impressed. Nice job.

[EDWYER]

Fantastic job.

[8k4]

Not bad, color is slightly off. What paint did you use?

[King Rudi]

Well done!

[BayE30]

i work in autobody industry, this is not how its done FYI. But whatever works for you...i guess.

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by SFCM3

i work in autobody industry, this is not how its done FYI. But whatever works for you...i guess.

What would you do for something like this? Cut away damage/weld in new section from donor?

[Bt12]

Good job. I use to enjoy this stuff when I was younger. Now I’m just lazy.

[dzvero]

nice job , what brand bondo/filler did you use?

[BayE30]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

What would you do for something like this? Cut away damage/weld in new section from donor?

Pull/hammer straight, apply less than 3mm of filler to smooth out the metal repair, seal and paint. We never ever use any fiber filler for repairs, it will crack and fail.

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by dzvero

nice job , what brand bondo/filler did you use?

Evercoat is a good brand. Please don't buy "Bondo" brand

[dzvero]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Evercoat is a good brand. Please don't buy "Bondo" brand

Thanks, I have same experience with "bondo" - drys fast and uneven surface in thin layers. Its almost impossible to do good job with it