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      06-15-2006, 10:37 PM   #1
edawg
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The Best Remote for amp..

I ordered a new amp and subwoofer for my car and i wanted to knwo the the best remote wire to hook up for amp..thank
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      06-18-2006, 12:11 AM   #2
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i just used a low voltage trigger..works perfect..just connect to power ground, to ur amp..and one to speaker signal.. here is an example of one i found really quick
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PERLVT2
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      06-18-2006, 02:25 AM   #3
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Looks good to me.
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      06-18-2006, 12:42 PM   #4
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thanks.. where would i connect this trigger at? from stock amp trigger?
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      06-19-2006, 11:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saini023
i just used a low voltage trigger..works perfect..just connect to power ground, to ur amp..and one to speaker signal.. here is an example of one i found really quick
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PERLVT2
I ended up using a low voltage trigger too... low voltage trigger works by using a low voltage (i.e. speaker signal) signal to switch on the 12V+ for remote. so get a line output converter with one built in. the PAC trunk-LOC is what I ended up getting. If you can't find it, or you already have a line output converter and don't want to spend more money, then the other source is the accessories power. But the problem with that one is it doesn't kick in until you have ignition on. It will not be on if you have it on in radio mode. The problem with using the stock amp trigger is that it never goes low... (i.e. it never turns off... there's always a constant 5V there).

The PAC trunk-LOC wires up with a ground, a hot(+) to the battery or you can daisy off of your amp (recommended), a remote that you wire to your amp remote, a low-voltage line that you just twist together on the input side on one of the speaker wires and splice into the factory amp.

The accessories power can be tapped if you lift up your center console and tap the cigarette lighter in the front. The molex connector they use there has enough room for you to squeeze in a wire without splicing... just tape it up or zip tie it up real good so it doesn't shift and fall out.
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      06-20-2006, 12:33 AM   #6
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thanks for the info..
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      06-22-2006, 07:57 PM   #7
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Check out my post
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12983
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      07-26-2006, 02:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcalibr
I ended up using a low voltage trigger too... low voltage trigger works by using a low voltage (i.e. speaker signal) signal to switch on the 12V+ for remote. so get a line output converter with one built in. the PAC trunk-LOC is what I ended up getting. If you can't find it, or you already have a line output converter and don't want to spend more money, then the other source is the accessories power. But the problem with that one is it doesn't kick in until you have ignition on. It will not be on if you have it on in radio mode. The problem with using the stock amp trigger is that it never goes low... (i.e. it never turns off... there's always a constant 5V there).

The PAC trunk-LOC wires up with a ground, a hot(+) to the battery or you can daisy off of your amp (recommended), a remote that you wire to your amp remote, a low-voltage line that you just twist together on the input side on one of the speaker wires and splice into the factory amp.

The accessories power can be tapped if you lift up your center console and tap the cigarette lighter in the front. The molex connector they use there has enough room for you to squeeze in a wire without splicing... just tape it up or zip tie it up real good so it doesn't shift and fall out.
Thanks for the info! What do you think of the sound quality with the PAC LOC?

In regards to installing it, I am a little confused with your narration above.

Do you have any pics of the install?

Thanks!!
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