[LMK5]

I'm thinking of buying out my 2017 330i at the end of my lease next month. The stories of high maintenance and repair bills do give me pause. Can some of you long term F30 owners give me your experience with ownership costs once the maintenance plan and vehicle warranty run out?

--Maintenance costs per year after free maintenance plan runs out?
--Yearly repair costs after warranty runs out?
--Nasty surprises?

[Gen13 F36]

Originally Posted by LMK5

I'm thinking of buying out my 2017 330i at the end of my lease next month. The stories of high maintenance and repair bills do give me pause. Can some of you long term F30 owners give me your experience with ownership costs once the maintenance plan and vehicle warranty run out?

--Maintenance costs per year after free maintenance plan runs out?
--Yearly repair costs after warranty runs out?
--Nasty surprises?

4-7 years is nothing really if you keep up on the maintenance interval on the handbook. Even if you follow the Honda service interval. Use quality parts.

Also this could change depending how you drive. This is my thought according to my driving habbit... 2016 428i GC 10k miles per year. Oil change every 7000 miles. Free maintenance and warranty will he over next month. Most will be done DIY.

Oil change $45 x 2 per year ( every 6 month)
Brake flush every 2 years.
Plugs at 60k miles (just me)
Cabin filter x1/yr
Transmission fluid change... 60k miles just me ($200 from fcp euro) going to indy labor

Brake pads and rotor probably the biggest spending depending if your going OEM or aftermarket.... me going akebono pads and stoptech crossdrilled rotors. Probably $1000 for front and back.

For nasty surprise.... just keep $1000 on your bank but probably never going to need it( knock on wood). Just keep in mind if you beat up your car..you raise your stakes. B46/48 is a good motor so far.

[LMK5]

Originally Posted by Gen13 F36

4-7 years is nothing really if you keep up on the maintenance interval on the handbook. Even if you follow the Honda service interval. Use quality parts.

Also this could change depending how you drive. This is my thought according to my driving habbit... 2016 428i GC 10k miles per year. Oil change every 7000 miles. Free maintenance and warranty will he over next month. Most will be done DIY.

Oil change $45 x 2 per year ( every 6 month)
Brake flush every 2 years.
Plugs at 60k miles (just me)
Cabin filter x1/yr
Transmission fluid change... 60k miles just me ($200 from fcp euro) going to indy labor

Brake pads and rotor probably the biggest spending depending if your going OEM or aftermarket.... me going akebono pads and stoptech crossdrilled rotors. Probably $1000 for front and back.

For nasty surprise.... just keep $1000 on your bank but probably never going to need it( knock on wood). Just keep in mind if you beat up your car..you raise your stakes. B46/48 is a good motor so far.

Thanks for the response. Do you happen to know the dealer rates for the services you do yourself? Also, are you saying it's 1k for brakes for each axle or for both axles combined?

[Silverlining_m2]

I've only had my car since March but I do have all the documented repairs on my 2013 328i to my knowledge.

So far aside from oil changes, brakes, and tires, it has had the oil cooler gasket replaced at 50k and plugs at 56k. All together about $600 in unexpected, non maintenance work. Although I have a 7 year old car with only 56k on it, and I put 6k on it in 3 months just enjoying it during quarantine. It's not even the same motor as yours and is said to be less reliable I think, but it's still a 7 year old bimmer that hasn't required a whole lot of work.

[chiefneil]

All standard maintenance (basically oil changes and tires) so far on my 2014 which was purchased in 2013 so it’s at the 7-year mark next month. I’m around 50k miles.

Only two things that aren’t in the manual that I did as pre-emptive maintenance were battery replacement around year 5 and that overflow coolant pipe thing which was a 5-minute DIY for around $30. I think I might be due for a brake fluid flush and rear diff change at the next service, maybe a transmission fluid change and spark plugs in a year or two at 60k.

The car’s basically be parked in the garage since March except for a trip to the grocery store or takeout every few weeks. I don’t expect that to change until we get a vaccine next year, so this year’s an anomaly for repairs/maintenance.

Based on my experience with bimmers I’ve kept past the 10 year mark (E46 and E53), expenses don’t start creeping up until around 90k / 9 years.

[chowser51]

2018 430i xdrive convertible, car is three years old: here's what i've done maintenance wise:
not counting two oil changes a year (less than $50 for oil and filter) and cabin filter once a year ($10 each)
do your own. it's cheaper.

past 65k miles this week.

new tires: $800, 44k miles
rear brakes (pads, rotors, sensor) $200, 48k miles
new wipers $24, 54k miles (old ones weren't bad but figured might as well)
Gummi Pfleger, $12, 63k miles (didn't know i had to do this so I bought some and did it)
4 new spark plugs, front brakes (pads, rotors, sensor) $300, 65k miles
tomorrow, 65.4 miles, brake fluid flush, $12 for new brake fluid

I will do plugs at 25k miles from now on since I'm running bm3 tune.

brake rotors (zimmerman) and akebeno pads from fcp euro. i believe these are oem spec.
dealer wanted $700 to do rear brakes, I laughed and an independent wanted $500 to do front brakes.
Do them yourself. These cars are easy. doing brake fluid flush tomorrow because someone gave me a motive bleed kit and brake fluid was $12.

i was changing engine filter once a year also but i bought a bms intake and oil catch can. i've got 15k miles on it and will be cleaning and reoiling it tomorrow as well.

[Gen13 F36]

Originally Posted by LMK5

Thanks for the response. Do you happen to know the dealer rates for the services you do yourself? Also, are you saying it's 1k for brakes for each axle or for both axles combined?

Dealer quote: I'm not paying this
oil change is $95 to 120
Brake fluid flush quote is $150
If you don't have time, the oil change and brake fluid is ok to pay. Those are very close to what a honda civic cost.

Cabin filter quote was $99

For brakes $1000 (could be less)is for my parts both axle... rotors, pads sensor. I'm doing this also

Dealer quote me brakes for $1250 for front alone. So with rear could cost close to $2000. HELL NO.

[R2Dad]

Dealer quoted me $1000 to replace transmission fluid on my 2017 328d. Asked the indy--also $1000. I'm at 65K so ready, but not at those prices!

[adhrp]

Here's my detailed thread on my maintenance and expenses: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...highlight=100k

[Gen13 F36]

Originally Posted by adhrp

Here's my detailed thread on my maintenance and expenses: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...highlight=100k

I read that thread. Still going strong bro.. nice to hear.

[undertaker]

Blows me away on the amount of people on here (all forums) who haven't driven their cars due to quarantining. Unfortunately, I haven't missed a day of work since March, due to be being an essential employee ,

So far, 2015 328 w/18k purchased last year;

Thermostat @27k, under warranty
Tires x4 @ 31k
Wipers @ 30k
Rear E- Brake cable, under warranty
Next replace dry rotting Windshield cowling
Oil changes every 5k
Cabin and Air filters replaced last month
Coolant flush last month

Been a good car, so far. Have driven Audi's before, which were a nightmare.

[sspade]

If you are able to perform basic maintenance tasks and don't abuse the car... it will last a long time without major issue most likely. This is what I've been following. Second F30 with about 70k miles covered between both. No issues to speak of besides coolant thermostat covered under warranty on my first one.

Top Tier 91+ fuel
Oil and filter, 5k miles
Engine air filter, 10k (or annual)
Cabin air filter, annual
Spark plugs, 50k
Differential gear oil, 60k
Coolant, 100k

Brakes and tires as needed. Always rotate a square setup regardless of what BMW says. For the record... I was on my original brakes all around at 95k miles on first car. Would have easily lasted to 100k on rear and 110k on front. Check brake fluid every two years but most likely will not require replacement unless you live in extremely moist environment.

*also important in my opinion, do not rev past 3k RPM on cold starts. Once needle has cracked off cold... drive as you wish.

**you may also consider performing trans service at 60k but I chose not to on my first one and drove it to 95k (bought used) and had no issues. My current F30 has under 50k and I'm not sure that Ill do it with this one either. At one point, I inquired at BMW dealer and they said "we'll do it if you want but it's a waste of money and not necessary." Now why would a dealer pass up on easy money like that. Hm. Blackstone has also gone on record stating that in their opinion...it is NOT necessary to service modern transmissions with lifetime fluid. Hm. Of course... if the car is tracked (abused) this changes things.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by Gen13 F36

I read that thread. Still going strong bro.. nice to hear.

Yup, still going strong and no issues whatsoever.

That said, yesterday for the first time ever I got the dreaded 'drivetrain malfunction, drive moderately' warning on the dash (109k miles on the odo) while driving on the highway at 65 mph and accelerating gently to pass a vehicle. There were no issues I could sense and it went away upon restart as many others have reported. We are experiencing a heat wave and it was unusually hot yesterday so I wonder if that caused a sensor to temporarily malfunction or something. It goes in next week for an oil change and I've asked my indy to read the codes and check for any issues.

[DreamerJoe]

all the horror stories of high costs come from the dealership mainly, I just had my spark plugs done for $180 (including oem plugs), when the dealership will charge $5-600.. I would never go to the dealership unless it's something only they can handle, which an indy can do almost anything these days.. some independant shops have prior bmw techs, sooo.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by sspade

**you may also consider performing trans service at 60k but I chose not to on my first one and drove it to 95k (bought used) and had no issues. My current F30 has under 50k and I'm not sure that Ill do it with this one either. At one point, I inquired at BMW dealer and they said "we'll do it if you want but it's a waste of money and not necessary." Now why would a dealer pass up on easy money like that. Hm. Blackstone has also gone on record stating that in their opinion...it is NOT necessary to service modern transmissions with lifetime fluid. Hm. Of course... if the car is tracked (abused) this changes things.

Touchy topic on the forums, but I haven't changed the ATF either and don't plan to. It still shifts very smoothly at 109k miles. If it serves me well through 150k (better yet closer to 200k), I will consider its duty done. Based on how it is performing right now, I think it might actually get there.

[LMK5]

Originally Posted by DreamerJoe

all the horror stories of high costs come from the dealership mainly, I just had my spark plugs done for $180 (including oem plugs), when the dealership will charge $5-600.. I would never go to the dealership unless it's something only they can handle, which an indy can do almost anything these days.. some independant shops have prior bmw techs, sooo.

I see you're in SoCal. I'm in OC. Who did your spark plugs? Do you have a good recommendation for an Indy?

[dmaxdmax]

Originally Posted by LMK5

I see you're in SoCal. I'm in OC. Who did your spark plugs? Do you have a good recommendation for an Indy?

The plugs are really easy with basic tools, which would cost you far less than paying someone to do them, in case you've ever thought of diying. Just saying.

[chowser51]

14mm thin wall socket. Spark plugs and it should be less than five minutes each to swap.

Lmk5 the last one will take more than five minutes, there’s a few things in the way to remove but I did it all in my garage.

[Gen13 F36]

OP..... adhrp thread give information on how much it cost if most of your maintenance work is to be done at the dealer. Its really up to you if you are willing to pay dealer taxes.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by Gen13 F36

OP..... adhrp thread give information on how much it cost if most of your maintenance work is to be done at the dealer. Its really up to you if you are willing to pay dealer taxes.

Those are indy costs, not dealer. Dealer stuff was all under the maintenance plan so it was free. DIY would be much cheaper.

[ybkbmw]

Sometimes one may be lucky with only scheduled maintenance, sometimes is not. Bear in mind that BMW, I am told, does not release fully capable diagnostic tools even to authorized repair shops and you may get stuck with simple things like no fresh air when AC on like I am right now.

[eluded]

Originally Posted by Gen13 F36

For nasty surprise.... just keep $1000 on your bank

More like 5k or more. My steeringrack was about that. With bmw you know their will be surprises but you just don't know what.