05-13-2016, 11:41 PM | #1 |
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HELP!!!Brake line won't go into caliper completely!!
I did the most stupid thing to take calipers completely off the rotors to paint it.... Now I tried to put them back on, but the brake hose won't screw all the way in... Is it because of the piston is compressed? Like there's no room for the hose? Or what's wrong? and how do I fix it??? I regret so much taking calipers completely off.... So much
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05-14-2016, 01:13 AM | #2 |
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The screw in fitting, if that is what you are talking about, doesn't need to screw all the way in.
Whatever you do, do not over tighten them as they will snap. |
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05-14-2016, 02:01 AM | #3 |
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I thought it's because I compressed the piston all the way back, whichs causing the screw not being able to tighten more?
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05-14-2016, 11:19 AM | #5 |
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05-14-2016, 11:32 AM | #6 |
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Open the bleed screw then, your going to need to re bleed them anyway. I really hope you didn't let all the fluid leak out of the line either, you'll have a mighty bad time rebleeding them without ista if you let a lot of fluid out.
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05-14-2016, 11:46 AM | #7 |
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I did let it just leak..... What's gonna happen?
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05-14-2016, 12:02 PM | #8 |
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Quick question you did know you have to bleed them right?
There may be to much air in the brake line to use the brake pedal two person method. You may need to use the DSC pump method which requires a highend scan tool (at least a $1000) or ISTA. |
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05-14-2016, 12:05 PM | #9 |
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Yeah I know. I got a power bleeder kit so think I'm fine. I'm more concerned about the screw lol. I did lossen the bleeder screw but that's how far it will go
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05-14-2016, 12:08 PM | #10 |
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And yeah I read something about actuating D.SC. But the manual recommand DSC bleed only when dealing with the hydraulic unit replacement of repair so I'm gonna try the normal method then if it doesn't feel the same, I will get ISTA/D to actuate DSCZ mode
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05-14-2016, 01:16 PM | #12 |
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05-14-2016, 04:40 PM | #13 |
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Put the calipers back on the rotors, you dont have to tighten them down, start the car and depress the brake pedal several times, in doing that, you will see if there is any bleeding on the nipple.
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05-14-2016, 05:09 PM | #14 |
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If not, its in good shape? I'm just worrying for like future use lol I mean it's brake and I'm pretty new at DIY stuff
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05-14-2016, 05:17 PM | #15 | |
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You certainly picked something "easy" and non consequential to fuck about with if you don't know what you are doing. |
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05-14-2016, 09:30 PM | #16 |
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I should have just painted with the caliper on the rotor...
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05-14-2016, 10:06 PM | #17 |
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No laughing matter. Should always start threads by hand. Possible Serious Situation.
If you cross threaded it... Buy Metric Tap and Die Set. Harbor Freight Tools. |
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05-14-2016, 10:26 PM | #18 |
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05-14-2016, 10:31 PM | #19 | |
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Make sure the thread goes as deep as on the other calipers. If in doubt, take it out. If you started tightening it with a wrench, that is where you went wrong. |
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05-14-2016, 11:41 PM | #20 |
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I put the M performance brakes on mine, and if I remember correctly, that thread looks right. Do what I told you, test it under pressure, if there is no fluid coming out, you are fine.
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05-14-2016, 11:43 PM | #21 |
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Also, let me get this straight, you didn't actually detach the brake lines?, you just removed the calipers?. If you didnt touch the brake lines, dont worry about them. Also, I hope you know that you have to replace the caliper bolts, since they are stretch bolts, once they are torqued down, they stretch and conform, replacement is needed once removed.
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05-15-2016, 01:49 AM | #22 | |
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