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      10-07-2015, 11:14 PM   #1
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BMW 435i GFB diverter valve

I recently ordered a Go Fast Bits diverter valve for my 435i and was wondering what the best way to install it was. It did not have car specific instructions and i am hoping someone knows the best and easiest way to install the valve.
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      10-20-2015, 11:14 AM   #2
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I purchased it and my custom shop said it was too much work to install (thats a whole other story, smh), I'm not running anything crazy so I just did without it. On an F32 it's underneath behind the engine if I'm not mistaken.
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      10-20-2015, 11:43 AM   #3
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Its alot of labour because you basically have to get to the intercooler and chargepipe area. People just do it in unison with their intercooler/chargepipe install
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      10-21-2015, 08:47 PM   #4
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I have one too and the install I was told is about 5-6 hours. Either way I'm gonna do it, eventually. If you beat me to it let us know how it goes.
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      10-26-2015, 03:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nerdboy View Post
I purchased it and my custom shop said it was too much work to install (thats a whole other story, smh), I'm not running anything crazy so I just did without it. On an F32 it's underneath behind the engine if I'm not mistaken.
The DV should be mounted in connection with the original plastic valve which is situated on the lowest part of the turbo, forward right side of the engine.
This can be reached without taking everything apart, I did.
/Krelle.
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      10-26-2015, 03:25 PM   #6
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I don't think anyone would need this before upgrading turbo, i did it with turbo install was breeze as whole turbofold was out anyway
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      10-27-2015, 01:10 AM   #7
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If you search this forum (im too lazy) I explained it in detail how to do it without removing the turbo. it is a legit pain in the ass but it is easily doable, and well worth it.
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      10-27-2015, 01:11 AM   #8
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You gain milliSeconds on the track ie it is worth having on.
/Krelle
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      10-27-2015, 01:20 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Krelle View Post
You gain milliSeconds on the track ie it is worth having on.
/Krelle
well I wasn't really talking track wise. My stock one was shitty as hell and leaked real bad, once I replaced it with the GFB it was like driving a whole new car.
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      10-27-2015, 01:29 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
well I wasn't really talking track wise. My stock one was shitty as hell and leaked real bad, once I replaced it with the GFB it was like driving a whole new car.
Morning Nathaniel,
I wasn't aiming at you but the guy before. Guess we pressed send at the same time...

Did you have the feeling that the original valve didn't close properly when running higher pressure? (...leaked real bad....). Bc I did.
/Krelle
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      10-27-2015, 08:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
well I wasn't really talking track wise. My stock one was shitty as hell and leaked real bad, once I replaced it with the GFB it was like driving a whole new car.
UGH, so annoyed, just did CP/IC and didn't do this.
I have no clue what my boost leak is....
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      10-27-2015, 08:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krelle View Post
Morning Nathaniel,
I wasn't aiming at you but the guy before. Guess we pressed send at the same time...

Did you have the feeling that the original valve didn't close properly when running higher pressure? (...leaked real bad....). Bc I did.
/Krelle
haha its all good, and yea I did! I was also have issues with it completely failing and re-engaging so the car would fall flat on its face so bad you would have thought the transmission blew up. I replaced the DV with the DV+ and it was working better than ever.
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      10-27-2015, 08:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shivaswrath View Post
UGH, so annoyed, just did CP/IC and didn't do this.
I have no clue what my boost leak is....
that sucks, but you will still have to unmount your water pump, and lift up your radiator to gain enough access to the DV to remove it.
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      10-30-2015, 02:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
that sucks, but you will still have to unmount your water pump, and lift up your radiator to gain enough access to the DV to remove it.
He does not have to lift the radiator!
If you don't have a lift it takes 3 hours.
/krelle
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      10-30-2015, 02:51 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Krelle View Post
He does not have to lift the radiator!
If you don't have a lift it takes 3 hours.
/krelle
I found that raising the radiator about 6 inches (not disconnecting any hoses) was the easiest thing to do. it allowed me to use an extension with an Allen head on the end to easily reach all three Allen bolts.
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      10-30-2015, 02:58 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shivaswrath View Post
UGH, so annoyed, just did CP/IC and didn't do this.
I have no clue what my boost leak is....
I have the feeling that even with the mppk only, it makes a different and you'll gain milliseconds.
If you're skilled just a bit you should go ahead.

Start by draining the coolant from below. (with cover removed).
Meanwhile disconnect the inlet air pipe , (the first bit).
Then the water expansion tank and oil "gas" pipe. Then the turbo inlet air pipe.(first the nut from below.
Undo the air pressure pipe as well but only at the turbo end.
Now a couple of bracket from below and the water pump. (The top bolt first and the elec. conn.).
Bend the water pump hoses out of the way and you're good to go.
You have access to the DV. Use a 5mm unbraco with rounded end. You'll need to use the long part of it and something to extend the short end if you don't have very powerfull hands.
/Krelle
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      10-30-2015, 03:02 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
I found that raising the radiator about 6 inches (not disconnecting any hoses) was the easiest thing to do. it allowed me to use an extension with an Allen head on the end to easily reach all three Allen bolts.
I couldn't do that with the Allen top as the small lube oil pipe was in the way, but now there is two approaches and the guys can choose one.
/Krelle
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Last edited by Krelle; 10-30-2015 at 03:03 AM.. Reason: +
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      10-30-2015, 03:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krelle View Post
I couldn't do that with the Allen top as the small lube oil pipe was in the way, but now there is two approaches and the guys can choose one.
/Krelle
hmm, maybe its different since yours is Euro? But I didn't have to drain any coolant at all. I removed my FMIC, turbo to FMIC charge pipe, raised my radiator about 6 inches, unbolted the water pump and the bracket the water pump is bolted to, pushed it to the side the best I could and held It in place with zip ties, then used an 18" extension & a socket allen with a rounded tip, put it through the lower grille and removed all three bolts. If I didn't have to figure out all of this due to trial and error I could have done it in about 2 hours instead of the 5 it took me lol.
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      10-30-2015, 04:16 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
hmm, maybe its different since yours is Euro? But I didn't have to drain any coolant at all. I removed my FMIC, turbo to FMIC charge pipe, raised my radiator about 6 inches, unbolted the water pump and the bracket the water pump is bolted to, pushed it to the side the best I could and held It in place with zip ties, then used an 18" extension & a socket allen with a rounded tip, put it through the lower grille and removed all three bolts. If I didn't have to figure out all of this due to trial and error I could have done it in about 2 hours instead of the 5 it took me lol.
Hm, Hmm, Guess the first time is fun lol.
I didn't remove the wp bracket, nor the fmic.
But I guess I gained access through the space where the water exp. tk is then.
/Krelle
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