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      09-01-2015, 07:52 AM   #1
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Aftermarket Diverter Valve

Has anyone tried this Diverter valve yet? If so, what're your opinions.

http://www.gfb.com.au/tms-turbo-mana...ve-T9356-27727
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      09-01-2015, 09:31 AM   #2
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All this valve does is allow boost pressure to bleed off back into the intake tract ahead of the turbo when the throttle is closed to prevent the back pressure from causing the compressor to stall and eventually weakening it. It's not going to provide higher boost, but it could open sooner to prevent the aforementioned compressor stall under higher boost levels. Unless you're going to be running very high boost pressures and doing some serious racing, you probably won't need this.
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      09-02-2015, 10:06 AM   #3
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Get it. It made a world of a difference on my car. I couldn't go above 20psi without my factory DV failing and causing my car to fall flat on its face. Now I'm running 27psi no issues at all and it responds way better than the factory DV.
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      09-02-2015, 03:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
Get it. It made a world of a difference on my car. I couldn't go above 20psi without my factory DV failing and causing my car to fall flat on its face. Now I'm running 27psi no issues at all and it responds way better than the factory DV.
+1

We've heard the same from our customers. The GFB DV+ is becoming increasingly popular and many people are noticing they are not leaking boost anymore.
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      09-02-2015, 05:25 PM   #5
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Are you losing boost?
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      09-02-2015, 05:43 PM   #6
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I was leaking boost before I had put in my pure stage 2, just wasn't anything I could do about it because the DV+ wasn't out yet. And it still wasn't out when I did install my stage 2. I had to install it with the turbo already on and WOOOOOOOOW talk about a royal PITA.
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      09-07-2015, 03:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shivaswrath View Post
Are you losing boost?
Yeah, I have a catless dp, intake and JB4. No matter which map I use I cannot get above 14psi and after psi peaks around 4k it doesn't hold pressure. It falls all the way to redline. Under heavy acceleration I here a sort of double air purge. I checked all pipes and connections and everything looks good. I found this DV while looking for something else to diagnose
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      09-07-2015, 06:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhawkdrvr View Post
Yeah, I have a catless dp, intake and JB4. No matter which map I use I cannot get above 14psi and after psi peaks around 4k it doesn't hold pressure. It falls all the way to redline. Under heavy acceleration I here a sort of double air purge. I checked all pipes and connections and everything looks good. I found this DV while looking for something else to diagnose
Let us know if it fixes your issue.

Mike
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      09-07-2015, 08:23 PM   #9
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Mike, thanks for the reply. I had sent my logs to Steve and Jon a few weeks ago. I can go on and on about the exceptional customer service that they have provided so far. From the logs you can see PWM and FF are maxed out. Steve stated that it looks like a leak. I inspected everything I could visually and the tubes and hoses look good. Does a DV replacement seem like a logical next step?
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      09-07-2015, 10:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhawkdrvr
Mike, thanks for the reply. I had sent my logs to Steve and Jon a few weeks ago. I can go on and on about the exceptional customer service that they have provided so far. From the logs you can see PWM and FF are maxed out. Steve stated that it looks like a leak. I inspected everything I could visually and the tubes and hoses look good. Does a DV replacement seem like a logical next step?
If this is the case, yes. Your factory warranty would cover the replacement, but f it, if you're out of pocket...and buy a stronger replacement!
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      09-08-2015, 02:41 AM   #11
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Are you sure it's the DV and not the engine protecting it self by dumping boost? I thought I had a leaky DV and it turns out the ecu was dumping boost and pulling back power to protect the engine.
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      09-08-2015, 10:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhawkdrvr View Post
Mike, thanks for the reply. I had sent my logs to Steve and Jon a few weeks ago. I can go on and on about the exceptional customer service that they have provided so far. From the logs you can see PWM and FF are maxed out. Steve stated that it looks like a leak. I inspected everything I could visually and the tubes and hoses look good. Does a DV replacement seem like a logical next step?
Ya that would be my next go at it.

Mike
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      09-08-2015, 11:17 PM   #13
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Do it, lol I'm telling you from experience. I'm not the only one I've seen with a leaky DV on F series N55's, that includes the 1, 2 and 5 series. Even if mine wasn't leaking, I would still get this just due to the fact that it responds so much better than the factory DV. And it's cheap. Just a PITA to install if you don't have the turbo already off of the car.
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      09-09-2015, 08:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
Do it, lol I'm telling you from experience. I'm not the only one I've seen with a leaky DV on F series N55's, that includes the 1, 2 and 5 series. Even if mine wasn't leaking, I would still get this just due to the fact that it responds so much better than the factory DV. And it's cheap. Just a PITA to install if you don't have the turbo already off of the car.
Can you send me pictures of your install? I'm wondering how hard it is for us OEM turbo guys.... Since pricing isn't too bad. Although Exchange rates for us canadians bump this to over 200 lol.
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      09-09-2015, 08:49 AM   #15
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I didn't take any pictures of the install, and there really isn't much to see, other than the 1"~ spacer that it adds. Everything is internal. The hardest part is getting room to remove the 3 hex screws that hold it in.

What I ended up doing was removing the FMIC, lifting the radiator up (as high as it will go without disconnecting the hoses going to it, which required uncoupling some hoses and unmounting some small radiator attached to the side of it on the drivers side, so I can run my extension with the round tipped hex sockets through the lower grille and get to the hex screws on the DV) unbolting the water pump and bracket holding the water pump and pushing it to the side as best I could without removing hoses, and using some round tipped Hex head sockets to remove the two screws I couldn't reach with traditional hex toolset the DV. The round tips are a necessity because they allow you to use them at an angle, which is your only option.

If I had done it this way in the beginning it wouldn't have taken as long, probably half as long lol....so maybe a couple of hours? Just took me forever to figure it out after trying every way possible with ought having to disconnect and remove the water pump. The tiny amount of space you have to work with is what makes it difficult.
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      09-09-2015, 09:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
I didn't take any pictures of the install, and there really isn't much to see, other than the 1"~ spacer that it adds. Everything is internal. The hardest part is getting room to remove the 3 hex screws that hold it in.

What I ended up doing was removing the FMIC, lifting the radiator up (as high as it will go without disconnecting the hoses going to it, which required uncoupling some hoses and unmounting some small radiator attached to the side of it on the drivers side, so I can run my extension with the round tipped hex sockets through the lower grille and get to the hex screws on the DV) unbolting the water pump and bracket holding the water pump and pushing it to the side as best I could without removing hoses, and using some round tipped Hex head sockets to remove the two screws I couldn't reach with traditional hex toolset the DV. The round tips are a necessity because they allow you to use them at an angle, which is your only option.

If I had done it this way in the beginning it wouldn't have taken as long, probably half as long lol....so maybe a couple of hours? Just took me forever to figure it out after trying every way possible with ought having to disconnect and remove the water pump. The tiny amount of space you have to work with is what makes it difficult.

So you saying with my OEM stuff it woudl probably be easier.
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      09-09-2015, 09:49 AM   #17
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No, exactly the same. Other than it will be more difficult to remove your intercooler if it's factory cuz I don't have to deal with those retarded clips that BMW put on the intake system piping anymore. And I did all my installs myself except for the turbo itself so I already know how everything comes apart. so time wise it might be longer for you, but still the exact same steps as I described above.
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      09-09-2015, 10:38 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
No, exactly the same. Other than it will be more difficult to remove your intercooler if it's factory cuz I don't have to deal with those retarded clips that BMW put on the intake system piping anymore. And I did all my installs myself except for the turbo itself so I already know how everything comes apart. so time wise it might be longer for you, but still the exact same steps as I described above.
Ugh not even worth it if I'm not doing intercooler install or chargepipe.
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      09-09-2015, 10:47 AM   #19
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Buy them too lol
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      09-09-2015, 02:51 PM   #20
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Buy them too lol
Lol I'd rather save the money for the M3 at this point. Car is off lease in a couple years and I'm thinking I really want to own an M car. The total package is part of it and not just straight speed.
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      09-09-2015, 04:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthmaster
Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
Buy them too lol
Lol I'd rather save the money for the M3 at this point. Car is off lease in a couple years and I'm thinking I really want to own an M car. The total package is part of it and not just straight speed.
This has passed my mind too
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      09-09-2015, 05:12 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obriennathaniel View Post
No, exactly the same. Other than it will be more difficult to remove your intercooler if it's factory cuz I don't have to deal with those retarded clips that BMW put on the intake system piping anymore. And I did all my installs myself except for the turbo itself so I already know how everything comes apart. so time wise it might be longer for you, but still the exact same steps as I described above.
I spent the afternoon under my car trying to come up with a plan of attack, and I'm glad I read your description of the replacement. Compared to my VW GTi this is substantially more difficult. I'll wait for the moment when I'm replacing the IC.

Rocco
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