Ceramic spray coat vs "real" ceramic coating?

[spicyB48]

Is there any real difference between ceramic spray coatings and "real" ceramic coatings?

I have a "real" coating on my 330i and it has a topper (SiO2 quick detail spray) over it

My mother has a BMW X1 and I coated it with Mother's CMX ceramic spray coating.

Both cars seem to repel dirt and have a nice shine. The "real" coating obviously lasts 18 months and the spray coat lasts 3-4 months, but other than that, is there any real difference in terms of protection? The spray coat is cheap ($15 for a 24 oz bottle) and is far easier to apply, so is there any point to a "real" ceramic coating?

[///MPhatic]

All the difference in the world between real ceramic coating, and the spray.

Also, real ceramic coating doesn't need any extra toppers, nothing would stick for long anyway.

Both are going to be very hydrophobic, but the big difference between the two is that one is usually handled by a professional, meaning they prep the paint before application. Anything you can just spray on without prepping properly isn't going to last, even if it's real ceramic coating.

Also, the over-the-counter sprays are not nearly as strong as pure ceramic coating, but don't have the same health risks either (you need to be using an N95 or a very well ventilated area to apply real ceramic coating).

[TboneS54]

Big difference in silica content and carrier/bonding agents.

Stuff like CanCoat, Wolfgang uber ceramic coating spray, and pinnacle blank label diamond coating are a middle ground - high silica content, more expensive ingredients, and you can usually smell solvents - similar with high silica content sprays like Carpro Reload and Gyeon Cure.

And just incase someone thinks the only difference is in longevity - no LSP will create a deeper look (or "glassy") like a true coating. It might get close enough for your tastes, but I can tell the difference easily. The hydrophobicity factor is at play too. While the beading will be pretty good at first, it still isn't as good as what a true coating provides which then leads to more water spots and more "touching" the car to get it dry. A true coating is more resistant to non ph neutral products as well.

If coatings cost more, I'd understand the desire to just use a $20 spray, but with quality coatings now only costing $50-100, the cheap sprays make even less sense (you have to apply it often anyway which causes the purchase of future sprays).

The DIY factor is probably the biggest factor now - if you can't DIY the paint preparation and coating application, then the costs skyrocket for a coated car.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

Also, the over-the-counter sprays are not nearly as strong as pure ceramic coating, but don't have the same health risks either (you need to be using an N95 or a very well ventilated area to apply real ceramic coating).

I think you'll want a P100 or organic vapor cartridge actually. I don't believe an N95 does much against the solvents. The P100 may not either honestly.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by TboneS54

Big difference in silica content and carrier/bonding agents.

Stuff like CanCoat, Wolfgang uber ceramic coating spray, and pinnacle blank label diamond coating are a middle ground - high silica content, more expensive ingredients, and you can usually smell solvents - similar with high silica content sprays like Carpro Reload and Gyeon Cure.

And just incase someone thinks the only difference is in longevity - no LSP will create a deeper look (or "glassy") like a true coating. It might get close enough for your tastes, but I can tell the difference easily. The hydrophobicity factor is at play too. While the beading will be pretty good at first, it still isn't as good as what a true coating provides which then leads to more water spots and more "touching" the car to get it dry. A true coating is more resistant to non ph neutral products as well.

If coatings cost more, I'd understand the desire to just use a $20 spray, but with quality coatings now only costing $50-100, the cheap sprays make even less sense (you have to apply it often anyway which causes the purchase of future sprays).

The DIY factor is probably the biggest factor now - if you can't DIY the paint preparation and coating application, then the costs skyrocket for a coated car.

Agree. The main difference otherwise is the amount of prep required I think. You can use a good spray sealant and not worry about having the car microscopically decontaminated. Might last a bit less, but you can just reapply. With the true coatings and also CanCoat, you definitely need the intensive prep.

IMO CanCoat should not be in a spray bottle... you have to be super careful and basically smother the sprayer and who wants to aerosolize and breathe in that stuff.

[spicyB48]

Originally Posted by chris719

Agree. The main difference otherwise is the amount of prep required I think. You can use a good spray sealant and not worry about having the car microscopically decontaminated. Might last a bit less, but you can just reapply. With the true coatings and also CanCoat, you definitely need the intensive prep.

IMO CanCoat should not be in a spray bottle... you have to be super careful and basically smother the sprayer and who wants to aerosolize and breathe in that stuff.

I used CanCoat for my car (and the leftovers for a friend), I agree that putting it in a spray bottle was a bad idea.

I prepped using a clay bar, but my paint was in good condition to begin with. If you have swirls or scuffs/scratches those need to be taken care of first.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Bimmerito

I used CanCoat for my car (and the leftovers for a friend), I agree that putting it in a spray bottle was a bad idea.

I prepped using a clay bar, but my paint was in good condition to begin with. If you have swirls or scuffs/scratches those need to be taken care of first.

If you've used CanCoat then you already know what a real ceramic coating performs like approximately. There are some better, but CanCoat is as hydrophobic as a good coating.

[CLEAN13BOOSTED]

Came across a video of Gyeon products. Seemed like a very cool spray on wet coat. Understanding its not ceramic however seemed pretty cool how hydrophobic it was! Did motivate me to bust out the hand orbital polisher and apply a coat of old fashioned Carnauba lol

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by chris719

I think you'll want a P100 or organic vapor cartridge actually. I don't believe an N95 does much against the solvents. The P100 may not either honestly.

You're absolutely right, I was typing too fast, I meant to write P3, just so used to writing N95 after COVID. lol

[Tejas1836]

Originally Posted by Bimmerito

Is there any real difference between ceramic spray coatings and "real" ceramic coatings?

I have a "real" coating on my 330i and it has a topper (SiO2 quick detail spray) over it

My mother has a BMW X1 and I coated it with Mother's CMX ceramic spray coating.

Both cars seem to repel dirt and have a nice shine. The "real" coating obviously lasts 18 months and the spray coat lasts 3-4 months, but other than that, is there any real difference in terms of protection? The spray coat is cheap ($15 for a 24 oz bottle) and is far easier to apply, so is there any point to a "real" ceramic coating?

After application, the only difference is longevity.

[richardyc]

just either use spray coating that will last 6 months or the real stuff that will last 3-8yrs, dont get cancoat, it is just ok like a cheap Chinese $20 coating from Amazon with water spot issue, and you have to apply it like the 3-8 yrs stuff, so why not just get the real stuff?

[chris719]

Originally Posted by richardyc

just either use spray coating that will last 6 months or the real stuff that will last 3-8yrs, dont get cancoat, it is just ok like a cheap Chinese $20 coating from Amazon with water spot issue, and you have to apply it like the 3-8 yrs stuff, so why not just get the real stuff?

Well, I mostly agree that if you are going to do a full prep you might as well use a "real" coating. However, CanCoat has some advantages:

1. It can do many cars per bottle and can go on any surface, can be used within 6 months of opening.
2. Easy to use, hard to get high spots.
3. If your prep isn't perfect, you abuse it, or you have to polish and it doesn't last, no big deal since it only costs $60.
4. There is no water spot issue that is specific to CanCoat.
5. Performance is noticeably better than all 3-6 month spray sealants I've seen.

[spicyB48]

Originally Posted by chris719

Well, I mostly agree that if you are going to do a full prep you might as well use a "real" coating. However, CanCoat has some advantages:

1. It can do many cars per bottle and can go on any surface, can be used within 6 months of opening.
2. Easy to use, hard to get high spots.
3. If your prep isn't perfect, you abuse it, or you have to polish and it doesn't last, no big deal since it only costs $60.
4. There is no water spot issue that is specific to CanCoat.
5. Performance is noticeably better than all 3-6 month spray sealants I've seen.

CanCoat, Meguair's Hybrid Paint Coating, and Adam's sprayable graphene ceramic are all great, easy to apply 1 year coatings that only need basic prep (wash, polish out any defects if needed, prep spray).

I used my leftover CanCoat to coat my shower since I hate cleaning and it worked.

[shimmy23]

Originally Posted by Bimmerito

I used my leftover CanCoat to coat my shower since I hate cleaning and it worked.

i always wondered if this would work! thanks for sharing!

[Nettles]

I used spray coatings/sealants for a long time. Getting a real coating is a game changer. Both are great and we can go back and forth all day long on each, but I got a good deal to get the prep work done along with the coating I preferred and I haven’t looked back.

[spicyB48]

Originally Posted by Nettles

I used spray coatings/sealants for a long time. Getting a real coating is a game changer. Both are great and we can go back and forth all day long on each, but I got a good deal to get the prep work done along with the coating I preferred and I haven’t looked back.

I think both have their place. Spray coatings provide protection and a glossy shine for a daily driver with quarterly application, but for a weekend/show car I would definitely invest in a "real" coating. Wax, spray coatings, sealants, and ceramic coatings all protect clear coat.

Also if a car needs heavy duty paint correction to remove swirls, scratches, etc, I prefer applying a "real" coating to make up for the thinned clear coat. Not sure if it actually helps or not.

[allinon72]

Besides what has already been mentioned, you are not going to get complete and even coverage with a spray vs. hand applied.

[Shaq93]

Originally Posted by richardyc

just either use spray coating that will last 6 months or the real stuff that will last 3-8yrs, dont get cancoat, it is just ok like a cheap Chinese $20 coating from Amazon with water spot issue, and you have to apply it like the 3-8 yrs stuff, so why not just get the real stuff?

I get what you are saying but you don't have to apply cancoat as meticulously as the "real" coatings. You can do an entire car in half an hour.

[Trevor G]

Got a price for a professionally applied ceramic coat for my i5 M60 for the day I pick it up. This is in New York so one of the more expensive markets to get it done. No paint correction will be needed because the car is going straight to the detailer. Price quoted was $600. Many moons ago I used to do all my detailing myself but those days of uber flexibility are long gone . Going to get it done professionally.

[John in VA]

Originally Posted by Trevor G

No paint correction will be needed because the car is going straight to the detailer.

LOL! One of the premium shops in the area spend 10-40 hours prepping brand new cars for PPF & ceramic coating. Pre-delivery dealership prepwork can wreck new paint.

[Trevor G]

Originally Posted by John in VA

LOL! One of the premium shops in the area spend 10-40 hours prepping brand new cars for PPF & ceramic coating. Pre-delivery dealership prepwork can wreck new paint.

Thanks for the heads up. I have asked the dealer to leave the delivery covering on the car. Hopefully they do that.

[Trevor G]

An even better option has shown up. The detailer will be able to do the work at the dealership. I have also asked the dealer to only prep the interior and leave the shipping plastic on the car. This should help to keep the paint as fresh as possible before any ceramic coating is applied.