PLEASE HELP SICK E60 545 N62 smoking and wont idle

[douglassimi]

Looking for ideas or suggestions, with today’s events I am at a total loss.

I have a 2005 545I 4.4 V8 N62.

Recently drove from California to Wisconsin. Car had a slight water leak that upon my arrival to Wisconsin, found it to be the water pump (OMG what were they thinking with the a/c belt design, and that one stupid bolt under the crank pulley). Changed the water pump, both belts, and the idler and tensioner pulleys due to noise and age.

Fired the car up and it ran like crap, wont idle unless the a/c is on, and started blowing smoke out the exhaust after sitting and idling(I say this is a new issue that started with the water pump replacement, while on my trip I stopped in Kansas to pick up my girlfriend and at one point, left the car in a mall parking lot idling for 6 hours with not a single issue, and this was due to my four legged daughter being left in the car in 90deg weather, yes, I love my dog more than my car), but only after starting to drive away, not the instant you start to accelerate (this is important because everyone is telling me it’s the valve guides, it’s not), also there is a whistle like a vacuum leak which I can’t seem to find, shocking as these engines don’t produce engine vacuum like a standard engine, hence the need for a vacuum pump.

First round of repairs, changed the CCV valves, as to my knowledge this is the only thing that would allow oil to get into the intake manifold (which I have determined by round two repair, there was a TON of oil in the manifold, and I’m sure there still is some, ant ideas on how to take apart the intake and clean it). The ccv valves on my car came with the vacuum nipple on them that attaches to a hose that tees into the air intake hose right in from of the throttle body. One of the valve caps for the ccv valve broke during the repair, and the replacement caps that come in the kit do not have this vacuum nipple on them, is it important, is it needed, how can you eliminate these lines and cap off the fittings, as I have been told by one dealer (who I trust, but just don’t feel I’m getting the right answer this time).

Second round of repairs, pulled the intake to determine if the whistle was cause by a leaking air injection hose under the intake. Upon removal of the intake, found a broken connector for the air injection hose, most likely from when I put the water pump on I reinstalled the retaining clamp incorrectly and it pulled on the old brittle connection and broke it. Noticed large amounts of oil running out of the intake manifold ports upon removal. Did a large amount of research on the CCV valves to no avail, still don’t know what to do. So I took on of the new nipple less caps, opened up the hole a little and installed a nipple and super glued it into place. Parts replaced, intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, air injection hose, both the piece running under the intake and the flexible part going to the air pump itself, upper and lower injector o rings, new design ccv vent hoses to connect the valve covers to the ports on the intake. Also order but not yet installed are new plugs and the coils. I have had multiple issues over the years with misfires, and have read countless forums about the coil problem, and the dealer has replaced 4 for the coils about 100k miles ago, so I’m just biting the bullet and doing it. Got everything buttoned back up today, fired up the car, and poof....runs like crap and still smokes, still whistles. The most interesting thing is, upon COLD start up, it runs fine, it’s like once it reaches operating temperature something in the electronics switches, and the whistle starts and the rough idle and the SES light appears and sets codes P0300-P0308....all for misfires on the cylinders

The reason I say it’s not the valve guides, I had the intake off for 5 days while waiting for the parts to arrive, and used a solvent to clean the intake ports and the tops of the valves as I wanted to make sure, that there was no oil leaking down the valve stems. There was NOTHING on the upper part of the valves, barely even any residue, and none of the intake deposits that plagued BMWs of years past.

[douglassimi]

so I'm back to playing around with stuff.....disconnecting and what not.....pulled off the ccv valve cover and started the motor, what i thought was my intake leak whistle sound, turns out to be the ccv valve......removed the valve while the engine was running and pulled the spring located under the valve, whistle went away and the engine idled....PERFECT.....put the spring back in and it runs like crap and whistles, put in one of the original valves that was still ok, and the same condition exists.....WTH?????

[douglassimi]

Did a test today, and started it cold and watched the temp, and time it took from a cold start to see the issue arise, granted not really cold out, 86 ambient, but it took 9 mins from start at only idle for rough idle to begin and the exact temp was 70c or 158f....will test again tomorrow and see if same results