Building new internal walls, whats est to keep them soundproofed?

[jag81]

As per title really,

im after experienced professionalls to offer the advice on whether i should build my internal dividing walls with either 100mm Solid Dense 7.3N Concrete Blocks or build a 100mm stud wall and pack with 60kg dense Acoutstic Mineral Wool?

I'll be finishing with 15mm acoustic plasterboard regardless of wall construction method.

Im thinking stud an wool will give the better performance, but will also cost significatnly more?

Main reason for sound proofing, is to isolate a wash/cloakroom from the adjoining lounge/cinema room...

[billnchristy]

Mass loaded vinyl and an air gap is the best way to go.

[jag81]

Originally Posted by billnchristy

Mass loaded vinyl and an air gap is the best way to go.

but if i am to build the wall in the first place, is a timber or brick construction the best method?

[freakystyly]

Not sure if that's for a basement but the concrete blocks likely wont work on a non-load bearing floor.

It's cheaper and easier to just add wood studs with additional layers to the outside.

[billnchristy]

The MLV is recommended to go on the back of your drywall so it really doesn't matter what the construction of the wall proper is.

Studded wall is probably easier and you wouldn't need to put insulation between the studs.

[zx10guy]

The way the acoustical fanatics do sound isolation is to float the dry wall with drywall isolation rails such as these:

https://www.soundproofcow.com/produc...RoCr34QAvD_BwE

Some go with doubled up drywall glued together to create another natural sound attenuation barrier. Then the wall cavities are filled with either standard fiberglass insulation or cell type acoustically isolating insulation. Any other ingress points such as recessed lights, outlets/wall switches should also be addressed. For recessed lights, the cans are must be IC type if they're going to contact insulation. Some actually build enclosure boxes around them to further isolate any air gaps. The electrical boxes should also be spray foamed where the wiring goes into the box. HVAC registers are also a consideration.

The main reason why many people build out acoustically isolated rooms is not to keep the sound from the A/V room to get out but to block outside noise from getting in.

For me, I opted to keep things relatively simple. I used 5/8" drywall that was glued to all studs and joists. I used fiberglass insulation in all cavities. Flex ducts for the HVAC supply piping to the registers. IC recessed cans. And solid core doors. The rest of the room build was having specific electrical runs wired to the room. I have 3 20A dedicated circuits. Two of them have hard wired balanced power transformers. The last 20A circuit has a component level balanced power transformer. Rest of the money went into acoustical panels.

[jag81]

Thanks All,
im UK based so maybe our regulations are different, though i assume they all are pretty close to each other.

I think i'll go studed wall, acoustic insulation, acoustic board.

Im also considering a dropped perimeter ceiling in which to install some overhead speakers for Atmos 7.1.. any sussgestions on how best to execute this idea?

[Bc2005]

A common solution here is to install a 2x6 top and bottom plate (6” thickness), and then use offset 2x4 walls so there is no direct connection between the two gypsum-faced walls. Use rockwool insulation to fill the cavity. As already mentioned, there are also sound-isolation clips you can install under the gypsum board for even more isolation.

[Maynard]

^^^ This - offset studs, heavy drywall, dense packing (wool, insulation, foam, etc). If any way to insulate/pad the feet of the washer/dryer that will also help.

[jag81]

so musing the metric system, 50*150mm top and bottom, and edged frame, with 100mm vertical studs staggered inbetween, and then pack with rockwool.

I've also seen these isolation strips such as this. https://flooringwarehousedirect.co.u...0aAm3REALw_wcB worth wrapping the frame in that too?

[Theruleslawyer]

FWIW my plan was the offset studs with mineral wool. Double up drywall on one side at least and use an acoustic adhesive between layers.

If you're trying to isolate a washer/dryer remember that a lot of that noise is probably coming through the floor. Working on isolating their vibrations and directly insulating the pipes in the walls might be more effective than going nuts on wall construction.

[jag81]

no im trying to isolate a washroom (shower, sink and toilet) from the adjoining living space.

[DETRoadster]

Originally Posted by Theruleslawyer

FWIW my plan was the offset studs with mineral wool. Double up drywall on one side at least and use an acoustic adhesive between layers.

If you're trying to isolate a washer/dryer remember that a lot of that noise is probably coming through the floor. Working on isolating their vibrations and directly insulating the pipes in the walls might be more effective than going nuts on wall construction.

This is an excellent point. I think simple offset studs and double drywall is a cheap and easy approach, but I agree that could all be for nothing if vibrations through the floor and pipes aren't addressed.

[F32Fleet]

Roxul safe n sound. You want an air gap inside the wall cavity so that sound will have a harder time moving through the wall.

Roxul Safe n Sound is mineral wool batting and sold in a thickness which will leave an air gap.

[jag81]

Thanks, As mentioned, im in UK, so not sure if all materials you guys are suggesting are available to me.

I intend to do the following:

6*2 stud wall frame,
staggered studs using 3*2

one half filled with:https://www.insulationsuperstore.co....32m2-pack.html

the other with: https://www.insulationsuperstore.co....-x-1200mm.html

side with rockwool will be finished with https://www.insulationsuperstore.co....00-x-15mm.html

side with celotex will be lined with: https://www.insulationsuperstore.co....00-x-15mm.html

Think that should give me enough protection for a washroom that shares the stud with a living space.