Roofing

[chassis]

Call your homeowner's insurance office and ask which material is best from a loss prevention point of view. If they don't know, fire them on the spot and buy a policy from another agency/carrier.

Get three quotes, for whichever material you decide on.

If it were me, I would go with a mineral material (ceramic/terracotta or concrete) in Florida. Hurricane and moisture resistance are the top concerns in my view. My mom's FL development has nearly 100% concrete or terracotta.

I wouldn't go with asphalt or fiberglass shingles, or wood shakes because of high moisture and hurricane resistance.

[Bimmersandmopars]

Originally Posted by chassis

Call your homeowner's insurance office and ask which material is best from a loss prevention point of view. If they don't know, fire them on the spot and buy a policy from another agency/carrier.

Get three quotes, for whichever material you decide on.

If it were me, I would go with a mineral material (ceramic/terracotta or concrete) in Florida. Hurricane and moisture resistance are the top concerns in my view. My mom's FL development has nearly 100% concrete or terracotta.

I wouldn't go with asphalt or fiberglass shingles, or wood shakes because of high moisture and hurricane resistance.

Moisture resistance?! Concrete and tile roofs randomly crack at a higher frequency than asphalt.

Metal needs to be maintained at a higher interval also and joints maintained with fresh sealants. The fasteners typically start to crack and slowly leak as they're essentially cooked due to having heat soak destroy them.

[chassis]

Yes moisture resistant. Rain. It rains in Florida.

[2000cs]

I have a Spanish tile roof at the beach in FL (central east coast). We had 6-7 blow off in a high wind storm two weeks ago. These were on the edge where the wind hit, I think they’re called rake tiles. Once the wind got under one of them, it could peel the whole edge. I got on FB and NextDoor to see what roofers local people previously had recommended, and had one come out and take care of it. I know I over paid, but $1500 got those all replaced plus the whole roof inspected and several cracked/broken tiles also replaced here and there. So I’m good now.

Some things I learned about roofs here.
1. They all take damage, even the metal roofs will peel back.
2. Fasteners matter. Everything rusts here, so stainless is generally best, and 3x the cost. But on a metal roof stainless might not agree with the roof metal, resulting in worse corrosion or mating (this is an issue on pool enclosures where aluminum enclosures are held together with steel screws, for example). Spanish tiles are held on, on the edges of the roof, with screws. So the screws need to be the right type and the substrate needs to be in good condition for them to bite.
3. Matching tiles was not a problem. Our roof is a mixture of colors, which is typical. I’ve seen some that are very uniform in color - those might be harder to match.
4. When the wind blows a Spanish tile off of your roof, it makes a hell of a noise coming down and hitting the ground. You’ll know if you get roof damage!
5. If I was building a house anywhere else I’d spend for the metal roof, but right here they just look like crap too fast from rust. I think it would take a very good installer to cut and re-seal edges, get every screw in properly, etc. It just doesn’t seem to happen. So my next choice for longevity is Spanish tile, then asphalt. I wouldn’t touch the solar shingles since repair is certain with our winds, and cost/skill problematic. Maybe in a decade, but not today.

[Bc2005]

When figuring out insurance coverage you also need to understand state differences in coverage. I had a roof replaced by USAA in January on my house in San Antonio, and it was painful (for out of pocket cost).

Years ago, Texas had issues with too many insurance claims due to black mold, so AFAIK the industry has decided you can no longer buy fixed deductible insurance on homes in Texas. Insurance deductibles are a percentage of the insured value (1%, 2%, 3%). This means that a homeowner will usually pay much higher deductible than a fixed amount like $500, $1000, $2000, etc. For example, if your home is insured for $300k and you pick the 1% deductible option, your deductible will be $3000. This means that most smaller claims never go to the insurance company.

[RickFLM4]

Originally Posted by 2000cs

I have a Spanish tile roof at the beach in FL (central east coast). We had 6-7 blow off in a high wind storm two weeks ago. These were on the edge where the wind hit, I think they’re called rake tiles. Once the wind got under one of them, it could peel the whole edge. I got on FB and NextDoor to see what roofers local people previously had recommended, and had one come out and take care of it. I know I over paid, but $1500 got those all replaced plus the whole roof inspected and several cracked/broken tiles also replaced here and there. So I’m good now.

Some things I learned about roofs here.
1. They all take damage, even the metal roofs will peel back.
2. Fasteners matter. Everything rusts here, so stainless is generally best, and 3x the cost. But on a metal roof stainless might not agree with the roof metal, resulting in worse corrosion or mating (this is an issue on pool enclosures where aluminum enclosures are held together with steel screws, for example). Spanish tiles are held on, on the edges of the roof, with screws. So the screws need to be the right type and the substrate needs to be in good condition for them to bite.
3. Matching tiles was not a problem. Our roof is a mixture of colors, which is typical. I’ve seen some that are very uniform in color - those might be harder to match.
4. When the wind blows a Spanish tile off of your roof, it makes a hell of a noise coming down and hitting the ground. You’ll know if you get roof damage!
5. If I was building a house anywhere else I’d spend for the metal roof, but right here they just look like crap too fast from rust. I think it would take a very good installer to cut and re-seal edges, get every screw in properly, etc. It just doesn’t seem to happen. So my next choice for longevity is Spanish tile, then asphalt. I wouldn’t touch the solar shingles since repair is certain with our winds, and cost/skill problematic. Maybe in a decade, but not today.

Yeah, we’ve had repairs after every hurricane. We have lost tiles, and there are always some loosened and some broken too. Our house also borders a golf course and every once in a while a tile gets broken by a golf ball and needs repair. Interesting thoughts on he metal roof, thanks.

[RickFLM4]

Originally Posted by Bc2005

When figuring out insurance coverage you also need to understand state differences in coverage. I had a roof replaced by USAA in January on my house in San Antonio, and it was painful (for out of pocket cost).

Years ago, Texas had issues with too many insurance claims due to black mold, so AFAIK the industry has decided you can no longer buy fixed deductible insurance on homes in Texas. Insurance deductibles are a percentage of the insured value (1%, 2%, 3%). This means that a homeowner will usually pay much higher deductible than a fixed amount like $500, $1000, $2000, etc. For example, if your home is insured for $300k and you pick the 1% deductible option, your deductible will be $3000. This means that most smaller claims never go to the insurance company.

It has been that way for years here in FL. We have a 2% deductible but at one point had 5%, which is a pretty high deductible. And yes, it eliminates small claims.

[NEfan508]

I write a memo clearly stating the reason(s) any project is leaking

Insurance companies pay with some hand holding… plenty of before, during and after photos

I eat breath and sleep roofs but only in my region, materials and method of applying different systems are a major factor in pricing for sure but should be similar, a roof is a roof ?!?

I thought south FL had cheaper labor costs and more aggressive pricing because of year round good weather, I guess not

your prices seem high IMO, keep shopping around materials @ list costs about $350 per 100 sq ft but this year I'm paying 50% more for some key items (it's a rats nests) like buying groceries for dinner (project) but going to 5 stores to get what I need for the roast lamb dinner, availability of materials is the real headache

I drove to New Haven CT 1.5 hours for 3" diameter plates @ $220 for a 1k box that usually costs $75, I did it with a smile because of shortages/availability

[Bimmersandmopars]

Originally Posted by NEfan508

I write a memo clearly stating the reason(s) any project is leaking

Insurance companies pay with some hand holding… plenty of before, during and after photos

I eat breath and sleep roofs but only in my region, materials and method of applying different systems are a major factor in pricing for sure but should be similar, a roof is a roof ?!?

I thought south FL had cheaper labor costs and more aggressive pricing because of year round good weather, I guess not

your prices seem high IMO, keep shopping around materials @ list costs about $350 per 100 sq ft but this year I'm paying 50% more for some key items (it's a rats nests) like buying groceries for dinner (project) but going to 5 stores to get what I need for the roast lamb dinner, availability of materials is the real headache

I drove to New Haven CT 1.5 hours for 3" diameter plates @ $220 for a 1k box that usually costs $75, I did it with a smile because of shortages/availability

Not to be argumentative, but you're looking at a completely different market sector.

Texas, Florida, Michigan, and Illinois have some of the highest prices for Roofing.... thanks to the market.

Asphalt shingles alone are respective retail at $400/sq. Nearly $500+ with insurance for a normal 30yr.

Standing seam is nearly $1k per sq, $700 retail. Tile is always around the $1k-1200 mark per sq.... insurance or not.

The OP will best be suited with a stone coated steel for his goals.

Last Decra quote I got from my supplier for a 85sq stone coated steel Decra roof was nearly $40k materials alone.... then about $300sq for install from my main sub. So roughly $750-800sq.

https://www.decra.com/

I've seen a stone coated steel roof in Texas climate be 30yrs old and look flawless....

[Bimmersandmopars]

Originally Posted by Bc2005

When figuring out insurance coverage you also need to understand state differences in coverage. I had a roof replaced by USAA in January on my house in San Antonio, and it was painful (for out of pocket cost).

Years ago, Texas had issues with too many insurance claims due to black mold, so AFAIK the industry has decided you can no longer buy fixed deductible insurance on homes in Texas. Insurance deductibles are a percentage of the insured value (1%, 2%, 3%). This means that a homeowner will usually pay much higher deductible than a fixed amount like $500, $1000, $2000, etc. For example, if your home is insured for $300k and you pick the 1% deductible option, your deductible will be $3000. This means that most smaller claims never go to the insurance company.

Fixed deductibles in Texas still happen and are very common as low as $500 or $1000. You're either grandfathered into that policy or you're paying extra for it.

USAA is notorious for over inflating dwelling coverages and have gone to a strict only 2% wind/hail.

Mold in Texas is not covered at all and all policies have specific exclusions, unless additional endorsement is written.

[NEfan508]

@Bimmersandmopars

I agree it's apples and oranges, I said materials and method of applying effect pricing for sure, I stick to primarily low slope systems (flat commercial roofs)


Shortage of materials play into pricing too

$1200 per sq is steep no matter what material or market your in, under $800 with a independent knowledgeable contractor is the target, nice plus if the owner will be on site for this expensive job, I'm on all of my projects making sure all go's smooth, most subs alone will cut corners

No matter what grade of subs you have, owner should be on site

[Bimmersandmopars]

Originally Posted by NEfan508

@Bimmersandmopars

I agree it's apples and oranges, I said materials and method of applying effect pricing for sure, I stick to primarily low slope systems (flat commercial roofs)


Shortage of materials play into pricing too

$1200 per sq is steep no matter what material or market your in, under $800 with a independent knowledgeable contractor is the target, nice plus if the owner will be on site for this expensive job, I'm on all of my projects making sure all go's smooth, most subs alone will cut corners

No matter what grade of subs you have, owner should be on site

Ok I see where the difference of industry is.

Residential roofing has a much larger price point compared to commercial.

I'll disagree about owner needing to be on site.

My main roofer will clear $3mil this year and that's not just due to volume, but quality of work. Pay more, get more.

[RickFLM4]

Originally Posted by NEfan508

@Bimmersandmopars

I agree it's apples and oranges, I said materials and method of applying effect pricing for sure, I stick to primarily low slope systems (flat commercial roofs)


Shortage of materials play into pricing too

$1200 per sq is steep no matter what material or market your in, under $800 with a independent knowledgeable contractor is the target, nice plus if the owner will be on site for this expensive job, I'm on all of my projects making sure all go's smooth, most subs alone will cut corners

No matter what grade of subs you have, owner should be on site

Our best quote in 2019 was about $840/square, which I understand from investigating to be pretty fair for the area at that time. Prices have skyrocketed on everything since then so I think we’ll be ok at $1,000 now if we can get comfortable with a contractor and contract terms. That’s where we are now with the company we have been using the last few years for repairs and who I like. Someone else quoted $1,200 and wanted way too much money upfront. Continuing to research and get quotes. But I don’t think under $800 will happen here now if I’m being realistic.

[NEfan508]

I pay my subs, in spicy Cheetos and blue Gatorade

I should start charging more now…

My 2 nephews and son on a cold damp Saturday 7am picking up my new dump trailer 2017

Op: yes my pricing/knowledge is in flat roofs, sorry I can't be helpful, it's like asking a BBQ guy about baking cakes?!?

Edit:

Bimmersandmopars your main sub makes more than I do… are you hiring? Lol

RickFLM4 just get an expert on your type of roof (plenty under their belt) you don't want a proctologist doing your dental work

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by RickFLM4

Any ballpark on cost per square / square foot?

About $1,600.

[RickFLM4]

Went online and got an estimate for a Tesla solar roof with power wall. Net of potential incentives, it works out to an equivalent of just over $2,600 / square (and they underestimated the size of roof). At that price, it would take 20 years to pay back the difference in price vs. a tile roof based on our avg. electrical consumption (probably less if we make some assumptions about energy inflation and / or if we can sell some excess power). Would also be nice to have the Powerwall in a storm rather than a generator. But just not something I see worth an investment in time to further research and understand better because the initial capital cost is just too high and I have concerns about the install process, which I understand can take months. But worth the little bit of time to learn at least something about it.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Bimmersandmopars

Moisture resistance?! Concrete and tile roofs randomly crack at a higher frequency than asphalt.

Metal needs to be maintained at a higher interval also and joints maintained with fresh sealants. The fasteners typically start to crack and slowly leak as they're essentially cooked due to having heat soak destroy them.

I just read this. No. The original standing-seam metal roof on my 250 year old house, which I do not know when it was installed, but I'd guess well over 100 years ago (it might be original...), does not leak. Yes, it does need redress of the sealing around the stone chimney maybe every 15 years or so, but it's around an hour's time to reseal it. I painted it once.

I have screw-down 3-rib metal roofing on several buildings (5 of the 6 on my property) and the two porches on the house. Most of it has been up at least 15 years. We've used both techniques screwing the sheets down; (a) screws in the center of the flats between the ribs, and (b) on the crest of the ribs. Of the 5 locations of the 3-rib roofs, I have direct access to the underside substrate, so I can easily tell if there is leakage. Zero leaks from ANY screw. The screws are sealed with a neoprene washer. That's probably about 1,000 screw locations with zero leaks after 15+ of service.

Modern metal roofs are extremely durable against weather, nearly leak proof and indestructible.

So I beg to differ.

[Bimmersandmopars]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I just read this. No. The original standing-seam metal roof on my 250 year old house, which I do not know when it was installed, but I'd guess well over 100 years ago (it might be original...), does not leak. Yes, it does need redress of the sealing around the stone chimney maybe every 15 years or so, but it's around an hour's time to reseal it. I painted it once.

I have screw-down 3-rib metal roofing on several buildings (5 of the 6 on my property) and the two porches on the house. Most of it has been up at least 15 years. We've used both techniques screwing the sheets down; (a) screws in the center of the flats between the ribs, and (b) on the crest of the ribs. Of the 5 locations of the 3-rib roofs, I have direct access to the underside substrate, so I can easily tell if there is leakage. Zero leaks from ANY screw. The screws are sealed with a neoprene washer. That's probably about 1,000 screw locations with zero leaks after 15+ of service.

Modern metal roofs are extremely durable against weather, nearly leak proof and indestructible.

So I beg to differ.

Lmfao.....

Ok.

Every metal roof in Texas disagrees with you.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Bimmersandmopars

Lmfao.....

Ok.

Every metal roof in Texas disagrees with you.

Who gives a shit about Texas? It snows and the electricity goes out for 3 weeks. LOL

And then there is this (BING!):

[Bimmersandmopars]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Who gives a shit about Texas? It snows and the electricity goes out for 3 weeks. LOL

And then there is this (BING!):

Dude. You're literally trying to argue with someone who sees the fuckery of all Roofing materials daily?

Next time you pump gasoline. Say a little prayer of thanks that a Texan made that possible for you. Lol

On edit: metal roofs are very common especially it central Texas. Why you may ask?.... because of hail.

It hails so much in Central Texas that all Metal roofs typically get a policy exclusion for dents. This means that you get to enjoy a nice dimpled roof(which if hard enough breaks down the coating of the material an allows breakdown to the elements).... until you're willing to spend $800-1k a sq for a new one.

[RickFLM4]

Originally Posted by Bimmersandmopars

Not to be argumentative, but you're looking at a completely different market sector.

Texas, Florida, Michigan, and Illinois have some of the highest prices for Roofing.... thanks to the market.

Asphalt shingles alone are respective retail at $400/sq. Nearly $500+ with insurance for a normal 30yr.

Standing seam is nearly $1k per sq, $700 retail. Tile is always around the $1k-1200 mark per sq.... insurance or not.

The OP will best be suited with a stone coated steel for his goals.

Last Decra quote I got from my supplier for a 85sq stone coated steel Decra roof was nearly $40k materials alone.... then about $300sq for install from my main sub. So roughly $750-800sq.

https://www.decra.com/

I've seen a stone coated steel roof in Texas climate be 30yrs old and look flawless....

I’ve been looking into Decra. Definitely higher upfront cost (and varies by Decra product line) and not crazy about using a non-local contractor, but product seems compelling.

[F32Fleet]

Metal, Tile/Concrete can keep your house cooler. Tile/Concrete is self venting. Metal will obviously reflect radiant heat. It could be made to vent if installed on purlins but I don't know if that's allowed in FLA as it increases the chance of uplift during a hurricane.

All are susceptible to hurricane force wind damage and requires some maintenance.