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08-19-2015, 03:27 PM | #23 |
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Yup, L-class Canon lenses are really pricey.
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08-19-2015, 04:49 PM | #24 |
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Don't do primes unless you have a specific purpose for them.
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08-20-2015, 11:05 AM | #25 | |
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Yes - more then my camera body itself! I have a place locally that usually has access to rent lenses and they carry EF's so can trial before purchase. Understood. Do Prime offer any advantage over example regular EF - other then fact they are set. Are image quality overall better? |
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08-20-2015, 11:51 AM | #26 | |
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There are some excellent primes under $200, which is not the case with zooms. However, if you shoot in Raw and use Digital Lens Optimization in Raw conversion, you can close the gap substantially. The L-series zooms are very good at all focal lengths, particularly with DLO, but the some primes are simply incredible. The 500/f4L has legendary image quality and the new 11-24mm f/4L looks astounding in the test images I've seen, but those are very expensive lenses. You can buy an EF 40/f2.8 STM for around $150 and get IQ that competes with the L-series. The non-Ls are not as robust, but you're not buying lenses with a bar fight in mind. A 24/40/50mm prime is a way to get started, with good quality and low cost. With my first SLR, in the 1960s, generally, most of us started with a 50/f1.8. Zooms were not so great, in general, back then, so we mostly shot only with primes. The IQ of zooms is now competing with the best primes, so we're free to have one lens cover many focal lengths. Shooting with a couple of high quality zooms that cover a wide range, like 24-105mm plus a 70-200mm, along with 1.4x and 2.0x covers an broad range of situations. That's what I carry, plus my ultra-wide 15mm and, when I expect the subjects that demand it, my 500mm. All L-series, except for the 15mm. I NEVER carry my 40mm and should probably sell it. Dave
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08-20-2015, 12:23 PM | #27 |
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Try a 50mm 1.8f, if you find you don't use it much then you'll know not to get more primes.
On a crop sensor I wasn't a huge fan of the 50mm, it became more useful for my needs when I went FullFrame. Then I picked up a 1.4f and love it. Even the 24-70mm you are planning to get, isn't very useful on a crop sensor. I'd recommend you get a EFS 17-85 or 15-85mm, but the 17-55mm 2.8 is a much better lense and close to L quality glass, probably the best you can get as an EFS lense. If you ever plan to upgrade to a full frame body, then Yes don't buy the EFS lenses get the 24-70 or 24-105.
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08-20-2015, 12:27 PM | #28 |
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On a crop-sensor, 35 to 40mm is closer to what the eye sees than a 50mm. 50mm is for full-frame or film.
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08-20-2015, 02:08 PM | #29 |
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Yeah, we've got a local place here that has lens rentals, too... Surprisingly, the lenses aren't that expensive to rent, but you have to guard the 'em with your life, else your credit card takes a major hit.
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08-21-2015, 06:33 PM | #30 | |||
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Absolutely! Great to have this as an option. Am going to see what is available this weekend - and hopefully get out for some shots! |
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08-21-2015, 07:03 PM | #31 | |
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DPP is not the only Raw conversion software that includes lens optimization. DxO pioneered it several years ago, so it's part of their Optics Pro software. Lightroom added modules two or three years ago. DPP comes with all Canon DSLRs, so that's free and give exceptionally good results. DxO offers a one-month free trial. Lightroom is the most used Raw conversion software, but I don't know if they offer a free trial. Try it. I think you'll be very impressed with the improvements in your lenses. In fact, I don't consider a lens tested until I've run the files DLO. Dave
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08-22-2015, 01:56 PM | #32 |
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Some photos I took this morning w/ my T2I & kit lens. Post edit work in LR - Comments / feedback / critiques welcome! Thanks guys!
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...4#post18459324 |
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08-23-2015, 12:00 AM | #33 | |
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Since you have Lightroom, you could boost up the contrast a bit and maybe try to recover the blown out sky in the background, if possible.
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08-23-2015, 09:28 AM | #34 |
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Agreed. Even if you can't "recover" the sky, pulling the highlight down a lot will balance the image better. A little more Contrast is always good.
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08-24-2015, 09:35 AM | #35 |
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Canon T6i review here: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PROD...canon-t6iA.HTM
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09-01-2015, 09:46 AM | #36 |
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Canon DSLR Buyer's Guide: http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/20...-buyers-guide/
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09-01-2015, 12:02 PM | #37 | |
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09-01-2015, 01:18 PM | #38 | ||
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09-01-2015, 01:28 PM | #39 |
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My two cents...
I shoot with a Canon 70D and a 24-105L mainly because it's still has the L glass quality, but its pretty wide range. I really do like this set up. Having the 70D be good in low light and the 24-105 having a decent range of zoom, it lets me just "walk around" with that set up and not have to worry about carrying a large amount of equipment. I would say to always get EF lenses that way if you do go Full Frame, you don't have lenses that you cannot use. Just my opinion, good luck in your decision! |
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09-01-2015, 09:10 PM | #40 | |
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09-03-2015, 08:04 PM | #41 | ||
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Thanks for the kind words! Will be getting my hands on some more glass to shoot and play around with. As I said this was shot on my T2I and kit lens! |
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09-04-2015, 12:15 AM | #42 | |
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If you go full frame, you'll pretty much always have to buy L-series glass to get the most out of the sensor... A very pricey choice.
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09-17-2015, 05:31 PM | #43 |
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i shoot almost exclusively primes...much higher rate of keeper shots for me. That wide aperture/shallow depth of field from around f/1.4 to f/2 is key for giving your photos that "professional" appearance that can't be replicated with zooms.
Last edited by cmplaya; 09-17-2015 at 05:41 PM.. |
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09-17-2015, 05:38 PM | #44 |
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Do you have any idea what's wrong with your technique?
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