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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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E92 M3 rep bumper fog delete
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06-22-2011, 02:16 PM | #1 |
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E92 M3 rep bumper fog delete
I just found this out the hard way and am going to have to do more work than i thought to delete the fogs on my new bumper. I wanted to use the M3 ducts to fill those spaces. First off, the passenger side does bolt right up to the oil cooler, but i will not match up with the bumper! You'll need to redrill the cooler mounting holes on the cooler bracket. I'll be doing this sometime soon. And the driver's side has to be cut to fit in the space, but will not do anything but put dirt and air in your engine bay. I'm capping mine and gonna route it to the brakes on that side. I'm also reworking the duct on the otherside to go to the brakes as well as the cooler.
So, M3 ducts are NOT a direct bolt on for the e92 M3 rep front bumper. EDIT: A full write up/DIY will be written for this. In fact I have everything up to where I am written out with spots for pics already...gonna be a LONG post! haha Last edited by mycoupe; 06-24-2011 at 12:41 AM.. |
06-23-2011, 12:10 AM | #2 |
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Please post some pics when you finish, so we know exactly what needs to be done to fit those ducts
BTW how much did you get the M3 ducts for? |
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06-23-2011, 08:45 AM | #4 |
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+1. Inquiring minds want to know.
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06-23-2011, 12:57 PM | #7 |
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I was planning on doing a small writeup. We'll see how small it ends up being, seeing as this duct making is taking A LONG time. Right now i have the plaster setting for the duct molds i fab'd up. I'll put a couple pics and some info up in a little bit.
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06-23-2011, 10:17 PM | #8 |
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Ok, so these are just some pictures of what I have going on so far for the ducts...TONS of work so far. I've had the damn bumper on and off a half dozen times so far I bet fitting, tweaking, fitting, tweaking, etc.
Anyway: Here are both of the ducts. The passenger side just has the brake duct shape roughed in with some HVAC foil tape which is really nice for keeping shape. The driver's side has the shorter addition and is the one behind the other. Here are the ducts again after the plaster was poured and hardened to make a base for me to start welding plastic onto once I have them sanded down perfectly smooth. Here is the driver's side duct with ALL of the snorkel section cut off nice and smoothly along edges. I used the foil tape again to contour the top of the duct so that it is smooth inside and will help direct airflow back to the opening I will make for the brake duct portion I still have to make around the plaster. Lastly, so far, this is the Driver's duct again after I welded the whole thing over, sanded it, and then added some two part mix plastic weld material to get a smoother finish on the outside. (I'm too much of a damn perfectionist. Gonna sand it perfectly smooth and paint it too when I'm done >.< ) Ok. So the bumper is all finished now and ready to go in for paint. All I have left now is to order some more fiber flex rod to finish up the welding I have left to do on the ducting. I will update this as soon as I have more substantial work done, and then will rework everything into a DIY. I have to warn you all though...it's not for the faint of heart and if anyone knows someone that would produce these, I'll let them mold them for a fee so that everyone can benefit from this, and of course I'll get a littl back for all my time, work, and generosity. Cheers, Jeff |
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06-23-2011, 10:23 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
51-74-7-900-823 List $80.62 @ my dealer $63.38 51-74-7-900-824 List $69.15 @ my dealer $52.15 Total: $123.04 after tax |
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06-24-2011, 11:26 AM | #11 |
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Just wanted to extend my thanks for posting this. I have considered doing this or the mtech and although I really appreciate the work done, I think it's more than I want to spend on this rep (in terms of time, not money). Of course, since you did point out that the ducts cost another $125, it makes me wonder what is the true price difference between this and the mtech considering the bumper, ducts, and fab material. What would you estimate the total invested on this setup?
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06-24-2011, 11:58 AM | #12 |
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I'll give you the exact numbers far once i get home tonight. Although, i believe it'll be around $1200-1300 after paint and minus the plastic welder i already had.
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06-24-2011, 12:24 PM | #13 |
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Also, i'm going to scan the templates i made for where to cut on the ducts and provide them as a pdf, making sure that if you print at 100% you have the correct size. I'm also going to make the DIY much simpler than what i did, now that i know what to do and you will already know where to cut and the beat order to do everything. It'll easily turn a week long job into a weekend job.
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06-24-2011, 12:45 PM | #14 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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06-24-2011, 02:47 PM | #15 |
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If i had known where to cut the ducts right away, and wasn't doing a bunch of trial and error, i woul be done with it already. I'm gonna try and finish all the fab work this weekend if i can. Classes start monday, and i'm gonna be swamped once that happens.
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06-24-2011, 09:19 PM | #16 |
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Ok, so it turned out to be a little steeper than I thought. If you don't own a plastic welder and choose to use one, your total price in parts would be within 20 bucks of $1000.00 before paint. This includes:
bumper ducts roll of foil tape dremel 2 dremel bits plastic cleaner adhesion promoter Fusor 2 part plastic finisher 80, 180 and 220 grit paper sanding block body filler spreader small safety torx kit black primer (2 cans) plastic welder extra plastic welding rods Now, if you already have a dremel, some bits, a safety torx kit, sand paper, a sanding block and decide against the plastic welder and extra welding rods, you're looking at roughly $790.00 So, as you can see...having some general supplies on hand already can bring the cost down a fair bit. Hope that helps you make up your mind. I'll have a DETAILED list of parts with part numbers and prices in the DIY. |
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