What low profile but high rise jack you all using?

[visionaut]

I also have an ARCAN, but I went for the 3ton Aluminum model. I gave up a little reach & height for 50 lbs less weight (those long-reach steel jacks are ~100 lbs.). I also needed to be able to carry & move mine around more easily.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

That'll reach the front center point without raising the car before? So is it long enough that the taller section near the handle doesn't have to go under the car?

Depends on how low you are.

At BMW's recommended 595/600 yes (620/620 is stock), I could jack the car from the front center point, but just barely, so the first few pumps were shallow

But now that I'm 587/594 I have to pull it onto some tiny ramps first.

EDIT: For my F87 M2

Originally Posted by visionaut

I also have an ARCAN, but I went for the 3ton Aluminum model. I gave up a little reach & height for 50 lbs less weight (those long-reach steel jacks are ~100 lbs.). I also needed to be able to carry & move mine around more easily.

Yes, my jack is quite heavy.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

All these recommendations for jacks that don't reach the center point without ramps etc... doesn't it annoy you needing to mess about with ramps or another jack? My normal jack is shit, and I need 2" ramps just to get it to a side jacking point, but I refuse to spend money on another jack that won't even reach the center point without messing about!

There was no jack low enough and long enough to reach under my lowered E90 M3 to the center jack point. I was not annoyed; I was the one who lowered the car on H&R springs.

[BlkGS]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

But you can't jack from a side jacking point and place a stand there at the same time, so how do you do it?

The jacking point is only a point because you have to be able to clear the side skirts with a long jack arm. You can put a jack stand under a similarly reinforced area.

For example, my Corvette has 4 jack points that are designed to accept a lifting puck. That allows it to clear the side skirts and get the car in the air. There's also a reinforced steel beam that runs down the car the jack points are located in. You put the jack on that beam after lifting it, then go to the other side.

Center jacking is fine if your garage has a bunch of space in the front and back. My garage in NC was like that. But most garages you have more space to the sides, so center jacking doesn't make much sense.

[Hit_Apex]

I guess this is what happens when you ask this question in the general forum. Will keep in back pocket in case I ever have to work on a Vette (like a normal person).

[BlkGS]

Originally Posted by Hit_Apex

I guess this is what happens when you ask this question in the general forum. Will keep in back pocket in case I ever have to work on a Vette (like a normal person).

It's even easier on all my other vehicles. Most all vehicles have either an actual frame fail, or a quasi frame rail on a unibody car.

My X5 is no different than the Corvette, nor was my Mini Cooper, our Rogue we had, etc. There's nothing magical about a BMW that you can only support it from one unique spot.

[pbonsalb]

I would not jack just anywhere on the quasi frame rail of a unibody car; only certain points are reinforced sufficiently for that load.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Hit_Apex

I guess this is what happens when you ask this question in the general forum. Will keep in back pocket in case I ever have to work on a Vette (like a normal person).

Oh hell, I didn't notice either, my comments were for the F87.

[Ohio Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

All these recommendations for jacks that don't reach the center point without ramps etc... doesn't it annoy you needing to mess about with ramps or another jack?

Yep, it's pretty annoying, but I'm not willing to drop $300 on those super low, super long reach jacks to save me 3 minutes of effort to get the ramps and drive on them (or else discover that even that jack can't reach the jacking point).

I started with jacking my BRZ (which similarly has a front central point and jacking the rear from the diff). Before I lowered it the jack just fit for the front point. After I lowered it I had to use short ramps, so I got used to it and having to do the same on the 335i isn't a big deal. I also use the ramps to level the car for DIY alignment, so they serve double purpose.

My next upgrade for lifting a car would either be a proper two post lift or a QuickJack (if I won't do that detached garage I've been dreaming of). Anything else would be a very marginal improvement.

[RM7]

This looks like my model and it makes changing wheels a snap with the aluminum jack-pads I installed on the car.

https://www.autozone.com/engine-and-...ck/1399156_0_0

[ryan stewart]

Looks like HF is the one, Id love aluminum but not seeing anything long reach and I really need those extra few inches (giggity) because my preferred jack stands are right at 20" and with the jack pads most jacks come up just short.

[Efthreeoh]

All cars have the frame/chassis marked where the lifting points are. A "chevron" (inverted "V") is used to mark the spots.

[RM7]

I like when people are asking how to jack their car up and put it on stands and all people can suggest are the lift-points, which are intended to be used with a lift, not stands. You can use stands on the lift points...but then you gotta figure out how to get your car up first and if those are the only lift points...you are kinda screwed. There may be other points that you "can" lift it from, but sometimes these damage the car, bend, etc.

And by "like", I mean they don't take time to consider "how" to get the car onto the jack stands.

[spammysammich]

Sunex 2 ton low rider. had it for 3 years, no complaint so far other than the weight.