Lots of good advice here. I'm just going to ad one that I've thought about adding to my modest collection for years that I think checks all your boxes:
http://www.stowa.de/lshop,showdetail...b--marine,.htm
Also, I would say that if you're not adverse to a pre-owned watch, you'll really maximize your return by buying a well cared for watch from a reputable member of a forum like WUS.