Care package delivered from Parks Hamilton.
And along with some other parts needed, they arrived from Autodoc and I got to work in putting the front suspension back together.
New brake dust shields as one was missing and the other was rusty:
Track rods measured up with new boots:
Febi thrust arms:
Febi front rear arms:
I sanded the inside of the hub carrier to remove corrosion and the shocks were able to slide in and out more freely than before. I then applied some copper grease to aid with sliding them in.
Bilstein sportline in:
Hub:
Brake dust shield:
Then it was a case of torquing the bolts up. For the front thrust arm and front rear arm, the suspension has to be loaded. Otherwise if you tighten them without doing so, it could twist the bush. As I hadn't got ramps, there is another way you can do this and that's by loading the suspension with a trolley jack.
In my case here, as I had fitted lowering suspension, I had to get the car back on the ground, move it back and forth so that the suspension was sitting at its normal ride height. I then measured the centre line from the middle of the wheel to the top edge of the wheel arch, got the car back up on stands, wheel off, load the suspension and match it to the centre line to simulate pre load.
Torque figures. These are the important ones for the control arms, track rods and front pinch bolt that clamps the suspension leg. The rest like the inner tie rod to rack, drop links etc. Just give it a guten tight.
Front Thrust Arm Ball Joint to Hub: 165Nm.
Front Thrust Arm Bush to Subframe. 100Nm, then 90deg turn. MUST BE DONE WITH SUSPENSION LOADED.
Front Rear Control Arm Ball Joint to Hub: 165Nm.
Front Rear Control Arm Bush to Subframe. 100Nm, then 90deg turn. MUST BE DONE WITH SUSPENSION LOADED.
Front Track Rod Ball Joint to Hub: 165Nm.
Front Pinch Bolt: 81Nm.
Top Mount Bolts x3: 34Nm.